Sanliurfa (Urfa)

This city will take a few posts since we saw so many things here. I will begin with our visit to the fruit plantation owned by the family of the principal of Harmony School of Science (HSS) in Sugarland, Texas. But let me start with some background on Urfa...

Şanlıurfa (often simply known as Urfa in daily language), formerly cited as Edessa, is a city in south-eastern Turkey. Urfa is situated on a plain under big open skies, about eighty kilometres east of the Euphrates River. The urban population of Urfa is mainly Turkish while the outlying regions are mixed Kurdish and to a lesser degree Arabian. The city has been known by many names in history, although, prior to the Turkish rule, it was often best known by the name given it by the Seleucids, Εδεσσα, Edessa. 'Şanlı' means great, glorious, dignified in Turkish. The history of Şanlıurfa is recorded from the 4th century BC, but may date back to the 8th century BC, it was one of several cities in the Euphrates-Tigris basin, the cradle of the Mesopotamian civilization. Urfa is also known as the birthplace of Abraham, commemorated by a mosque in the city and the birthplace of Job.

Urfa was conquered repeatedly throughout history, and has been dominated by many civilizations, including the Ebla, Akkadians, Sumerians, Babylonians, Hittites, Hurris, Armenians, Mittannis, Assyrians, Chaldeans, Medes, Persians, Macedonians (under Alexander the Great), Seleucids, Arameans, Osrhoenes, Romans, Sassanids, Byzantines, Crusaders.

The Temple of Nevali Cori - Neolithic settlement dating back to 8000BC, now buried under the waters behind the Atatürk Dam, but some artefacts relocated above the waterline. Gobeklitepe - The world's oldest known stone temples (dated to before 9000 BC)

The Day I Rode With The Gypsies

Entering Trabzon, we made a stop in the mountains to see a little village where groups of gypsies feed and entertain visitors. Our driver let us off at the top of the hillside and we enjoyed a relaxing walk down to the village. I had hung back, taking pictures and talking to some of the children, when it began to mist. I put away my camera and started on down the hill, seeing the rest of my group moving quickly to where the bus had stopped. The rain came down harder. Then harder still. I walked faster. Then I began to run. Then I saw the last person get on the bus. I ran faster. Then the bus pulled away. And drove off. I could NOT believe they would leave me...ME, of all people. I'm the one that talks all the time. Surely they'd miss me and the bus would stop.

So, ten minutes later, and soaking wet, I'm still walking down the hill, in the rain, when a little car pulls up next to me. The driver was short and stout, bald, and had a huge cigar in his mouth. He rolled down his window and told me to get in the back (I didn't understand him, of course, but he was pointing to the backseat). I thought about the safety issue- for about a second- and opened the door. Only after I began to enter the car did I realize the entire backseat and floorboard were covered by several hundred apples. I had to push mounds of them away to get in and had no place for my feet. But it wasn't raining in the car...I could deal with the apples. This man and I had a conversation all the way down the mountain, neither of us understanding but a few words the other was saying, and when I saw my bus ahead I pointed and thanked him for his kindness. He let me off in front of my bus and said goodbye. MY people were staring at me, then back at the bus, then at me again. They hadn't even noticed I was missing. From that point on, everytime we got on a bus or plane, Mr. Sari asked if everyone was there, including Lori.

The gypsies cooked lunch for us and spread it out on the rock wall next to the bus, we ate these enormous meat sandwiches in the rain...It was a great lunch!!!

Trabzon

Trabzon (Greek: Τραπεζούντα, Trapezounta) is a city on the Black Sea coast of north-eastern Turkey and the capital of Trabzon Province. Trabzon, located on the historical Silk Road became a melting pot of religions, languages and culture for centuries and a trade gateway to Iran in the east, Russia and the Caucasus to the North [1]. Venetian and Genoese paid visit and sold silk, linen and woolen fabric. During the Ottoman period Trabzon, because of the importance of its port, became a focal point of trade to Iran, India and the Caucasus. Trabzon formed the basis of several states in its long history, and was the capital city of the Empire of Trebizond. Originally, it was founded as Trebizond (Τραπεζοῦς) by Greek traders from Miletus (traditionally in 756 BC). When Xenophon and the "ten thousand" Greek mercenaries were fighting their way out of Persia, the first Greek city they reached was Trebizond (Xenophon, Anabasis, 5.5.10).

The Sümela Monastery (Greek: Παναγία Σουμελά, Turkish: Sümela Manastırı) stands at the foot of a steep cliff facing the Altındere valley in the region of Maçka in Trabzon Province, Turkey. The monastery was founded in the year 386 (during the reign of the Emperor Theodosius I, AD 375 - 395) by two Athenian priests - Barnabas and Sophronius. That was a climb and a half!!!!!

The Hagia Sophia (Greek: Ἁγία Σοφία, meaning "Holy Wisdom"; Turkish: Ayasofya), now the Hagia Sophia Museum, is a former church and mosque located in the city of Trabzon in the north-eastern part of Turkey. It dates back to the 13th century when Trabzon was the capital of the Empire of Trebizond. The Hagia Sophia church was built in Trapezunt during the reign of Manuel I between 1238 and 1263. After Mehmed II conquered the city in 1461 the church was converted into a mosque.

Uzungöl (English: Long lake) is lake situated to the south of the city of Trabzon in Turkey. This is close to where we stayed, and very close to where I met the Gypsies...next blog......

Caykur Tea

Rize is on the north side of the range of mountains that run along the Black Sea coast. Overlooking the sea this is the wettest corner of Turkey and Rize is the country's largest producer of tea. The province is mainly rural and very attractive with its mountain valleys and elevated yaylas (meadows). The settlements here are traceable to 260BC.

Upon departure from a long visit with the Governor and his minions (always wanted to use that word) we headed out for tea with the wives of the mayors. Meeting at their offices downtown (they have a womens group that raises money to further the education of promising young women and promote wellness and awareness of social issues impacting women). We were actually served Turkish coffee (which I detest, but drank it anyway) and delicious chocolate (which I went back for thirds...it really cut the taste of the coffee). The women gave us many gifts and we took MORE pictures! Then off to have Tea with the president of the Caykur Tea Company, Genel Müdürmüz Sayın Ekrem Yüce'yi.

When we arrived at the tea garden the president and his wife were waiting at a vast table set up just for us...everyone in the gardens knew who he was and so thought we were VERY SPECIAL GUESTS INDEED! After the introductions (remember? I told you about them...) he taught us all about the tea production, sales, research, and export. We tasted each type of tea as he told about it, it was Heaven! Then the womens group showed up...with food...lots of it. So we had to eat again (yeah!). Then it was time to tour the grounds, research labs, and tea tree farm. I LOVED this. I love Turkish Tea! Now I have a greater understanding of the process from the plant in Rize, Turkey to my cup here in Fort Worth.

Back To Turkey....Rize

Remember when I was so excited that I would be visiting Rize? Where all the Turkish Tea I could ever want comes from? It was WAYYYY more than I had hoped for.

Rize is in the northeast section of Turkey, close to the Iraqi border. Beautiful, green and lush and cool. We had a surprise waiting for us when we arrived for brunch, Mayors from 5 of the surrounding villages (along with their wives and children) were ready to greet us with a meal fit for royalty. Huseyin Sari made note of the fact that there was meat (unusual for a breakfast unless VERY special guests were in attendance), we took our places at the long tables arranged on the expansive veranda upstairs overlooking the tea plantations throughout the hillsides. Huge umbrellas shaded us from the midday sun and gentle breezes cooled us to the point of needing our scarves to cover our shoulders. Suddenly all the men stood up and looked very nervous, straightening their clothes and rapidly arranging themselves in some kind of order...Mr. Sari leaned over and said the Governor had just arrived to join us for a few moments. After the introductions (which we went through at EVERY visit in EVERY town, "My name is Lori Nelson and I am an artist. I have two children and a grandchild in the Harmony school system. This is my second visit to Turkey.") we ate, had tea, and then went inside to visit in a more formal setting. The governor cancelled his afternoon appointments so he could get to know us better. We had great conversations about U.S-Turkish relations, the upcoming presidential election, Turkey's efforts to enter the European Union, tea production, their love of our country, their dislike of President Bush, and the education systems in the U.S. and Turkey. Then it was picture time, including the media which planned to run our story front-page.

And by the way, they would very much like to see Barack Obama become our president....

Angie is having a baby!!!!!!

What can I say? Between Angie and Armando this will make grandchild number 7. I am thrilled!!!!! They are such good, responsible, and loving parents- and I don't see how they manage.

The baby is due in March....seems so far away...I can't wait!

And Then Came Perry...

So, 3 days after my surgery (remember, I'm not walking) we went to Isa's 3rd birthday party at Angie and Armando's. Perry was jumping on the trampoline and got bounced too high. He came down straight on his leg and screamed. Once we got him into the house and put ice on it we assumed he had pulled a muscle- until we realized he could not walk on it. Alexis and I left the party with him and headed to Cook Childrens' ER where they x-rayed it and deemed it duly broken. The Tibia, two inches below the right knee had snapped on impact. He got a hard splint and an appointment to have a full cast. Cook's also provided him with a small wheelchair (due to our "situation") and he is now wearing his beautiful red cast...from the top of his thigh to the tip of his toes. It has only slowed him a little but I can tell he is so bored, ready to run and play and be outside.

We have such a system going to handle day to day activities, and the bathroom is the best-devised so far. When Perry and I have to do it alone, I let him roll his wheelchair to the bathroom door where I am waiting inside. He slides out of the chair and grabs my crutches and we double-crutch to the toilet. each of us hold a side of one crutch while he takes care of business, then head back to the chair the same way.

"This too shall pass..."

How long since I last blogged?

I came back from Turkey expecting to have minor surgery on my knee to remove a cyst. Mind you, I KNEW I would have the surgery and so planned it so as not to interfere with our summer activities. When I woke up my doctor came in and said he had sucessfully removed the cyst (although it had been a tough one, right on the nerve that controls leg and foot movement), but also found a meniscal tear, a severe lack of cartilage that should be covering the bone, and enough fluid to make a pot of soup. He had repaired what he could, and told me I would be on crutches for 6 weeks with absolutely no weight bearing during that time. OK. Once I processed THAT I thought, "I can do this....". At my follow-up appointment to have my stitches removed I found he had saved the worst for when I was more coherent. When I come off the crutches I will be in a mechanical brace until I have a full knee replacement.

It has been 3 weeks and I'm halfway there. My shoulders, sides, and arms no longer hurt from the crutches but my hands are constantly sore and bruised. I have built up some pretty serious muscles in my arms and shoulders- and that's a big plus! On the down-side, It takes so long for me to accomplish any task that I'm exhausted by lunchtime...I will make it though!

In the words of my dear friend Betty Marcell, "This too shall pass"...

Susan

Susan is a friend of mine from TGC. She is an R.N. and works as a surgical nurse at Harris Hospital. Besides being one of the most adventurous people I know, she has so many talents I can't list them all. She is sweet and funny and fits in with any group. It was a special trip for her...her husband is half Turkish/half Iraqui and she was able to witness the culture he grew up in. We hope she brings her husband next year!

Kathy & Olivia

Kathy is a Kindergarten teacher in San Antonio and a super person. She is on a hard journey in life, having felt tremendous loss years ago that lingers to this day. She is so beautiful, a smile that lights up the planet and a sense of humor and easy laugh that make you feel instantly comfortable with her. I REALLY want her to join us again next year.

Olivia is Kathy's daughter and is a sophomore at University of Houston majoring in Chemistry. Brilliant mind, beautiful like her mother, headstrong, and hilarious- Olivia doesn't just live, she IS overflowing with life! Willing to try anything, and comfortable around anyone- I can't wait to see how successful she will become!

Irma & Yolanda

Irma was on the trip last year, this year she brought her friend "Yolie" with her. Irma is a "nanny" and has been with the same family for 16 years. She is from El Salvador- one of the most genuine, kind, and sweet people I have ever had the pleasure of knowing.

Yolanda is a homemaker and is very quiet. I hope she comes with us again next year so I can get to know her better.

Archie & Suzie

Archie (Dr.Argentina Roscoe Wortham)is a Ph.D. and teaches at the community college in San Antonio. He acted as "security" as well as being just one of us. Always keeping us on time and moving, he was there to help the women on and off the bus, up and down hills, and generally protect us from aggressive salesmen. He also asked all the right questions and received all the right answers. Pretty handy guy to have around.

Suzie is an artist and highly creative. She designs and sews all her own clothing, as well as creating all of the beadwork. I doubt there is anything she can't do. She is from India and has the most beautiful accent (and speaks her mind quite freely).

Both were on the trip last year as well....

Handsome Band-Aid Nose

Handsome Band-Aid Nose had a very long name which I cannot remember. He has his Masters Degree in Business and was the nicest man. Another person who could answer any question, he was by far the most cultured of the cultural attaches who guided us. Apparrently he was injured while playing soccer (futbol) and required surgery to repair his very handsome nose.

Barry Manilow

This guy had the most amazing hair...and he KNEW he was goodlooking. We couldn't pull out a camera without seeing him prepare for the "photo-shoot". With a degree in Engineering from the University in Istanbul we wondered why he was not working in that field. He was long-winded, but seemed to know his stuff. I heard the longest version of the story of Job in the history of mankind...

But isn't he cute?

Pidgeon Wally

Our guide for Kapadokya was renamed by us as Pidgeon Wally because she could not say "Pidgeon Valley". She was the cutest thing we had ever seen (or heard). Each sentence included "Ah Huh" and "Clearly stated" and "Technique" (which was pronounced by her as "teck-neek-cue"). There were no questions asked which she could not answer, including all questions regarding Christian settlements here. An amazing woman!

Let Me Introduce Some Of Our Guides...

We had many guides over the course of our stay in Turkey, Cultural Attaches' from each region were sent to explain the sights for us. They were so knowledgeable and friendly, we almost felt bad about assigning names to them.....

Goreme, Kapadokya, and Pidgeon Valley

I will fill in the blog after we get to Urfa. The two young girls I am standing with in one picture are named Mushru and Zaynab. My hair was done the same way as Mushru and she thought that was great! Kapadokya is also known as the Land of the Fairy Chimmneys, where the earliest Christians (the Gnostics) hid to escape persecution from Rome. Pidgeon Valley (the guide kept calling it Pidgeon Wally so we named her that) is a place where tombs were cut into the rock in the valley walls. It was breathtaking.Goreme was where we ate lunch in a cave...huge caverns carved into the rock with a great hall. We were served traditional food while a man entertained us with singing and a superior talent on the Ud. Our guides were singing along with him and enjoying it very much. This was the last meal I enjoyed in Turkey- notice the meat and rice pictured? I think this is what killed all good bacteria in my intestines. More soon...stomach bad....